It is raining in Nice

Well my test worked! Today is very wet. We took the little (11 passengers) bus down to the main train station, got some details of the little tourist train which runs 150kms into the mountains. When the weather clears we aim to take it about halfway to a village of Entrevaux. ( 1 and a half hours ) We are about to have lunch at Flunch (good cheap food) and hope that the weather will allow us to take the tram to the beach and take the tour of the town via the Petit Train. We are well and enjoying the trip if not the narrow twisting roads, with blind hairpin bends by the dozen. C'est la vie! More about yesterday soon.

Hi all. This is a short test to see if I have finally worked out how to do a new post. It is raining in Nice

Vidauban to Nice

Hi folks. We are still in France, have had major problems accessing the web and especially adding to this blog. We left the tiny cottage in the village of Vidauban and drove to the coast at Fregus but stopped at the adjoining town of St Raphael. We preferred this to the bustle of St Tropez. The weather was fine and sunny, almost hot. We walked the waterfront, past more modest boats than at St Tropez, and had a nice lunch. I managed to get off one email at the adjoining Tourist office before they closed for lunch! The French must have their extended lunch break - to hell with the tourists. Anyway we voted this town a winner. Then it was into the traffic along the coast road. Actually the traffic was not bad and trip tres interessante. The road winds it's way around lovely bays with postcard views. The downside is that it is quite slow traveling. But we had the time. After passing through Antibes and Cannes we set the GPS for our address in Nice. And this time the lady in the dash got us to the door. As expected our apartment complex was on the side of a hill/mountain above the town and the views from our apartment are amazing. Lots of ferries come and go. Today (Sunday) we took the bus into town and are having lunch. It has been raining but the sun is now out. We will walk to the waterfront and take the Petit Train around town. Love from Don and Valerie.

France du jour

St. Remy and Les Baux in Provence

After doing some necessary washing we headed the small town of St.-Remy-de-Provence, without knowing much about it. It was on the way to the most visited village in France, Les-Baux-de-Provence. We liked St Remy- not too touristy and the sun was shining. Sitting in the sun at a cafe we even got hot! and we realized that this is what a holiday is about. We wandered the streets looking for a shop called Harley's. We never found it but the stroll was enjoyable. Then we had a short drive to Les Baux. We could see the rocky outcrops well before we got there, driving across the plains covered with olive groves and vineyards. We managed to get close buying paying for parking and soon why this place was so popular. It is a classic old mountain village, built entirely of limestone, with vehicles excluded from most of it. And towering above it is the remains of a Roman fortified Chateau. After another superb and not too dear lunch overlooking the valley we went up to the Chateau entry point. Valerie decided not try to scale the heights so Don went on alone (well, with quite a few other tourists) I was fascinated with the whole thing - the scale of it, the reproduction siege machines, some which could hurl 140kg stones which could breach thick stone walls, everything. I could have spent hours there. The views from the top were fascinating panoramas. The aluminum ore bauxite, which was first mined nearby, got it's name from here. We voted it another top day - how many more can we cope with? PS - I guess that everyone knows that Levi Strauss bought the local strong blue cloth from Nimes hence Denim from - cloth De Nimes. PPS - I believe it is now possible to make comments on this blog. Tomorrow we drive to our next cottage, via one of favorite areas, the Luberon mountains.

Nimes etc - part2

The roman Arena is the major attraction in Nimes and deservedly so. Valerie could not cope with all the steep stairs so had to wait for me across the road, listening to a trumpet performance. I managed to negotiate all the curved arched corridors and the steps. It was well worth the visit. After a nice lunch We continued walking towards the Jardins de la Fontaine. Here more water emerges from the earth and has been channelled into canals - all in a formal setting with lots of statues. But the big attraction is the remains of the Roman Temple of Diana. You just don't see 2000 year old buildings in Australia! We did not take the 140 steps up to the Tower Magne, built around 15 BC. Then it was a mad dash back to the bus station, to save waiting another hour. We made it, and the trip back. Thursday morning I went to the Renault dealer to find out about my tyre. It had been available since Wednesday and they had tried to call me. It turned out that I had been giving everyone the wrong number! I blame those European 7s. So late morning we set off for the town of Orange, up the river a bit from Avignon. This is an attractive Ville, and we arrived just as the morning market was closing down. We enjoyed a delicious lunch near the tourist office then walked to major attraction, the best preserved Roman Theatre in Europe. Valerie got free entry from a sympathetic ticket seller due to all the steep stairs but at least got into the lower space. We both got audio guides and Don got the top of this 10,000 seat theatre, partly built into the side of a convenient hill. Another fascinating piece of the long past. We drove the short distance to the Arc de Triumphe, then set our sights on Mont Ventoux, famous foe often being a gruelling stage in the Tour de France and dominating the area. Our way was firstly across very flat farming country, with lots of vineyards and orchards. Then from the pretty town of Malaucene the rod went up. A sign said that the road was closed but we pressed on. A bit later a sign added that it was open to .... Pass. The road was excellent and there was almost nil traffic, a welcome change. We watched the temperature drop steadily and the views were breathtaking. Gradients were regularly advised, presumably for the cyclists, the steepest being 11 per cent. We eventually arrived at the ... Pass amidst more and more snow. Valerie was "freezing" whereas I felt invigorated. We had coffees in a little restaurant in front of a wood fire - nice. A family of cyclists, on mountain bikes! arrived, and they were cold. I did not find out where they had come from but it seemed unlikely that they had ridden all the way up. They did ride all the way as we saw them on the way down and at the bottom. We arrived home after a satisfying day.

Nimes, Orange and Mont Ventoux

After frustrating phone calls to the Renault dealer in Avignon, where I could get no sense from anyone about my new tyre,we decided to take the bus from Barbentane to Nimes. This saved us driving around in a car with no spare wheel. However we found that the next bus would be in 2 hours so we decided to drive the few kms to Tarascan and get one from there. The trip took about 45 minutes and dropped us next to the Nimes train station. We were impressed with the station with its stone vaulted areas and refurbished look. Out the other side was a grand avenue being rebuilt and it ended in a beautiful modern plaza with the Office de Tourisme and a famous fountain with statues of Romans who had been involved with the first Roman settlement. We walked a little further and suddenly came across the Roman temple,built in the year 2 AD. It is in good condition except that walls have been added between the columns, to form a cinema showing the history of the temple and it's people. To be continued

Avignon

Today(Tuesday) we took a bus to Avignon which took only 20 minutes. The winds had abated overnight luckily and the forecast was for 18 degrees. I doubt if it reached that but we managed to stay warm. After walking through one of the "portes" in the town walls (nearly 5km around) we went up to the Office de Tourisme for brochures and V bought some lovely calendars of Provence (which we are now in) and a fancy shopping bag. Further up the avenue was an attractive square,with the usual restaurants almost filling it. We selected one for coffees and made a lucky choice. It was all good, including the toilets, not always the case. Then it was onwards to the famous Palace of the Popes. For about 100 years a succession of Popes lived here , in a massive fortified building overlooking the Rhone river. Outside in the plaza we took the Petit Train for a 45 minute drive around, including threading it's way through the narrow lanes with centimeters to spare. For lunch we returned to the same restaurant and then wandered down some of the shopping streets where V was in a shopping mood. My shopping seemed to involve a round black rubber thing with a hole in the middle. I did not get the hoped for phone call so expect to get the tyre tomorrow. Next we wandered down to the riverside and took a 1 hour boat ride. This was smooth and very relaxing. We passed 2 cargo barges and 2 huge river cruise boats, one from Arnhem in the Netherlands. This may have crossed from the Rhine to the Rhone via the connecting canal. Avignon is a very attractive city but the long distance bus station is appalling (our bus goes on to Nimes). We were glad to be out it and were soon 'home'. Another good day out and now to decide our agenda for tomorrow. Ideas include Nimes, Arles, Orange and various little villages in the Luberon mountains. More soon and best wishes to all.

Barbentane, L'Isle de la Sorgue and the Vaucluse Fontaine

As mentioned before it was blowing a gale on Sunday, with strong gusts. We decided to drive to a couple of the nearby top tourist spots. L'Isle de la Sorgue is the Venice of Provence being situated on the Sorgue river withs a number of canals and a market on Sunday. By the time we got there the market stalls were closing but walk around showed a very attractive centre with water flowing swiftly in the canals and a number of water wheels still working to lift the water from one level to another. We discovered an area of antique shops selling the usual overpriced goods. Next it was a short drive to another tourist draw card, the Vaucluse fountain. This is quie spectacular, where a large river comes streaming out from the massive towering cliffs. Naturally there were lots of other tourist and hordes of stalls to tempt you. I climbed to the source whilst Valerie enjoyed a coffee overlooking the fast flowing river a bit lower down. We voted this a good choice to visit. The fountain area was protected from the strong winds but once we got out a bit they were as strong as ever and gusting wildly, making the car move around. Somewhere along the way back, on exiting one of the numerous roundabouts I misjudged a turn and hit the kerb hard with both RH wheels. The winds were the same overnight and on Monday and the locals confirmed that it was the Mistral, but should been gone by now. Not only is it cold but can nearly blow you over. On a visit to town centre ( not very impressive) Valerie noticed that a front tyre was damaged. A visit to a nearby tyre place confirmed that it shot - new tyre required. They could not supply but sent me to another place in Avignon. When I finally found the place it turned out to be a Renault dealer. They did not have the required type and size in stock, but fitted the spare and quoted price which was more than I had even dreaded. A moment's inattention! I await a phone call. I ventured into the old part of town later. It is old and not at all pretty. I can't remember when I was last so cold - it is like the bleakest part of an Adelaide winter - and this spring? We expect to take a bus into Avignon tomorrow and to have to rug up. More soon

Aigues Morte, St Maries de la Mere & Barbentane

First an apology - as we have not yet worked out how to edit this blog on the iPad there are lots of errors - please excuse! On the autoroute taking us to Grabels I was surprised to find how it snaked around the hilly countryside and regularly rose to 1100+ meters height. When we arrived at Grabels we were warm for the first time in France! The temperature was 16 degrees at 8PM. That was to change after our first night in Barbentane. From Grabels we decided to revisit the old walled town of Aigues Morte, in the Famous Camargues region. Last time we were there we had happened upon the weekend of the running of the bulls - tres exciting. This time it was the "running of the tourists" Well, it was a Saturday and in the school holidays. We would like have taken a boat trip on the canals which crisscross this area but time was against it. So we drove about 30km to the coastal village of St Maries de la Mer. This is/was a quaint fishing village but again on this day taken over by us tourists. We declined the opportunity to attend a bullfight at the seaside arena. I managed to get more urgently needed diesel before we drove to our next Gite at Barbentane an historic village 10km frm Avignon. At first we passed through very flat country with horses, bulls and water everywhere - this the Camargues. Then we followed the Rhone river north. The gps again failed us. It turned out that it was a block and a bit out. The house is situated on the outskirts of the village and not exotic but has everything we need. The next morning we woke to strong cold winds which have continued so far here - could this be the infamous Mistral? More tonight - time to explore the village.

into the mountains

Wednesday was not a very eventful one. The route was mostly via autoroutes but with some local roads linking the autoroutes (luckily free). It was raining and cold mostly with the temperature falling the closer we got to our destination. Unfortunately the GPS failed us at the end and left us at the end of track on the other side of the valley we managed to navigate ourselves to right spot withe help of our detailed map book. We had a gourmet dinner at the hotel/restaurant in St. Sauves D'Auvergne nearby. In the morning the rain had turned to light snow, which melted when it hit the ground. This was the first time Don had seen snow falling, We drove of in temperatures falling to 0 degrees as we got higher into the mountains. Don was worried by the warnings of ice on the roads but the locals seemed to proceed as normal i.e. fast. Eventually we came onto a free Autoroute which took us all the way to our destination of Grabels, just outside of Montpellier. The rain continued until close to our finish. We stopped twice at some excellent roadhouses for lunch toilets etc. A highlight was viewing and driving over the Millau viaduct, the highest bridge in Europe, spanning the Tarn river. Our GPS got us right to door of our Gite, where we spent 2 nights. We stayed in a little cottage in the garden of our hosts, who were most welcoming, for our dinner I managed to order in French a pizza, to be delivered. It did arrive - of course! The following day we drove to a nearby Tram station and the trip to the centre of Montpellier took about 20 minutes. This is an excellent service with trams about every 5 minutes. We were most impressed with the city, particularly the main square and the old quarter. We took a trip on the 'Petit Train" a good way to see the city and save your legs. Even so by the end of the day we were tired. We had dinner at the restaurant in the Comedie Opera house, watched the entertainment in the adjacent plaza and took the tram back. It had been a great day. To be continued!

Easy Days

On Easter Monday we had a very lazy day, after the full on day before.  I found the supermarche was shut (so it really was a holiday)  but we had enough food to get by. The day was like all but one since we have been in France - cool to cold with fresh breezes.
So we just stayed inside and read, studied a little French, and watched TV when we could find a movie in english that was not the usual rubbish. I went for a walk along the river late in the day. I can't remember when I last had such a quiet day - there is always something to do when at home.

Then today we decided to take a short 15km drive to a Chateau which sounded worth a look.  It was reputedly the Chateau with the most original interior of them all. The grounds were immense and the exterior very classic and in immaculate order.
But the interior was amazing - It was fully furnished, just the way it would have been long ago. We voted it the best Chateau we have seen.  We had an early lunch in the adjacent Orangerie and I (Don) was fascinated by the centuries old roof structure.
This Chateau Cheverny is still privately owned and been in the same family for many centuries, on and off.

The afternoon was spent cleaning the house and packing, getting ready for a 360km drive South tomorrow to the village of St Sauves D' Auvergne near the Massif Centrale. We over-night there before driving to Montpellier on the Mediterranean.

that's it for now, hoping that everyone is happy and well - we are.

Don and Valerie

Tours and Le Mans

We had an interesting day yesterday, Easter sunday.  We drove off early (for us) along the river about 60 kms to Tours,also on the Loire. We eventually found the city centre and stopped for coffee and to study our Lonely planet.
The sun was shining weakly as we walked quite a way to the old town. It was worth it and we had a nice lunch there.
We had passed a large basilica with dome and were surprised to find out that it was built in the early 1900s. The remains of a 5thC church adjoined.
After lunch we were disappointed to find, nearby, a beautiful plaza where we could have had lunch and glorious views of the old timbered buildings.
Time was passing so we decided to take the autoroute about 60kms North to Le Mans and pay the tolls. We were really going to the circuit for the 24 hour sports car race and the adjacent museum which are before you get to Le Mans itself. We found a marked turnoff to the circuit but then - no more signs!  The GPS would not tell us anything or take us there ( if it had not been fixed in the car I think I would have tossed it) - total frustration!  So we drove further and into the city looking for signs. Eventually we thought that we were now heading south from the city centre but the lack of sun meant we did not know where South was. We were slowing regularly trying to read signs and noticed a car had been following us for a while but had no chance to pass. Then they pulled alongside at a stop and asked in French if we were lost. Oui!
After telling this young couple in an older car where we wanted to be they said "follow us". We were soon there and our thanks felt quite inadequate - we had been rescued by strangers. We had lost an hour but at least now could enter the Musee de 24 heures.
This was excellent - lots of sports racing cars, including French ones but also plenty of other, mostly French, voitures starting from 1885.
I should now have plenty of photos for the car club magazine.
It was around 6 45 so we decided to take the autoroutes back. Along the way we stopped for dinner at one of the roadhouses and had an adequate but certainly not gourmet meal. It was now getting dark and I had my first experience of 135km/hr in the dark. Luckily the traffic was mostly quite light.
Arriving home at 9 30 we both felt quite tired. Valerie reckons her hair is now a shade grayer!  We voted for a quiet day tomorrow.

Easter Saturday in Blois

Today we decided to catch the local bus into Centre Ville. Valerie was eager to check out the Saturday Open Market and she wasn't disappointed!  Fresh fruit and vegetables galore, also bread, meat, smallgoods, cheese, flowers to name a few.We couldn't resist the Patisserie so much choice but we settled for Pomme Tartine and Citron Tarte. Other goodies in our basket included Quiche Lorraine, a Vegetable Tart (for Don) Sheep's Cheese, Strawberries, Green Beans and crusty bread. Yummy!!
The township of Blois sits above the Loire River,  it is an attractive town especially the old quarter where we found the St Louis Cathedral. The streets are narrow and winding with some houses dating back to the 15th century.Don has managed to find a french version of ice coffee so he is happy, he also found a hat at the market and I didn't have to twist his arm to buy it!  The weather is quite cool for spring, we are glad we have warm clothes, hats, gloves and scarves.
Tomorrow we will take a trip to Tours and Le Mans so keep posted!

PS - Don was excited yesterday because he finally saw an early Renault 5 like his, parked near the Chateau! In the 5 weeks we had in Paris in 2009 he saw none.  Cars older than 10 years are rarely seen except in rural areas.

Blois

This font size is better?

Hi all - this is the first of many I hope.  I am currently using the French keyboard so have to use care.

After 4 and a half days in Paris we are now in the Loire valley for a week in the historic town of Blois.

Our Paris stay was most enjoyable but too short.  We had an excellent (if expensive) hotel in the left bank, close to the river, Notre Dame, the Pantheon and hundreds of eating places.  Hordes of tourists took over the nearby streets of restaurants in the evenings. We went on a river hop- on hop-off cruise, stopped at the Jardin de Plantes, where we had an excellent and leisurely lunch in the restaurant.  This was initiated by a need for toilets, the only one we could find in the Jardin itself was out of order.  This reminded us from previous trips that we have 2 main probems in France - finding public toilets and the lack of disabled access - many places are only accessable by lots of stairs.
I had not been to the Pantheon before, so made sure that I did.  It was so impressive - the dome, the pendulum hanging from the top of the dome which apparently (not so apparent for me) shows the rotation of the earth. Then there is the crypt, where hundreds of eminent French persons, almost excusively men, have been interred and honored.
And no, we did not go to the Eiffel or Sacre Coeur this time but did see the Tower illuminated, albeit briefly.

On Wednesday morning we took a taxi to the TT depot at the Porte de St. Cloud (exit from the Peripherique ring road) to pick up our Renault Scenic automatique with GPS. We were soon on our way, with some trepidation. The young man at TT had set the GPS for our detination, Giverny, famous for Claude Monet's house and Garden.

Luckily Giverny was not too crowded and we loved the experience. After a quick snack nearby for lunch we set the GPS for Blois. this was tricky - it took about 4 goes to get it right. We opted to go via Autoroutes, longer and more expensive but an hour quicker.  We were surprised to find ourselves returning almost to Paris before joining another freeway which took us direct to Blois. Thankfully  the traffic was not too heavy as I got used to travelling at 130k/hr and up.

Our house for the stay is a bit ordinary on the outside but magnificent inside and centrally heated - mornings are quite cold.

that's it for now - to be continued! Don and Valerie